Our Odyssey: Siena

Tuscan Countryside

At Poggibonsi

At Colle di Val D'elsa

I know that there is a great rivalry between Firenze and Siena - but really there shouldn't be - I can't say that I like one better than the other - they are both spectacular in their own way. Although each has a different feel - Siena was quieter than Florence, not as many tourists or people in general - maybe that is why some people prefer Siena. We started the day on a double decker bus - originally I was going by train - but changed my mind when I found out that the train does not get close to the old city area. Anyway, we missed the express service which means we went on the ordinary service that stopped at two smaller towns along the way - Poggibonsi and Colle di Val D'elsa. This was OK with me as it gave us a chance to see a little bit more of the Tuscan countryside. Despite being on the top of the double decker photography was hard as all the roads had trees planted along them - and they were just that little bit tall - gaps were small and gone before I could photograph...... but I managed a few OK ones and we have other trips planned where I can try!

Chalk painting in Piazza G. Matteotti

Church Santa Maria d.Nevi

Palazzo Pubblico in Il Campo

Il Campo from North end

From South - looking back to where photo above was taken from. We ate at the cafe under the red canopy at left of photo.

San Clemente in Santa Maria dei Servi, taken from our lunch table. This is a Church associated with the Servite Order - I taught at their school in Perth.

The trip took us through the Chianti area - and there were lots of vines - although not as many as I expected. The terrain was very hilly and we even had sections of "forest" - which Jacob wanted to stop the bus and get off so he could go into the forest and hunt for the blue snakes that were hiding in there! We arrived in Siena around 11am which was a little later than planned - but then I really had no idea how the boys would go with a full day of "touristing", so we had started a little later. We started by trying to make our way from Piazza Gramsci where the bus terminal is to Il Campo (Piazza Del Campo) where the tourist office was - without a map...... interesting. However, the method of "follow the most number of touristy looking people" and a few signs got us there OK and we walked around the outside of the Piazza until we found the office - and a map- before choosing a cafe (they are all around the edge) to have lunch. We then plotted our course for the rest of the day.

The "happy" fountain in Il Campo - the pigeons are certainly happy it is there!

Leaving Il Campo - the lights in this area all look like fish

View from Piazza d.Mercato

The first little "hill"

The top of the second little "hill"

Church of San Guiseppe - from half way up another 'hill'

View from San Agostino - finally at the top!

We headed out of Il Campo and down a hill, Siena is built on a number of hills - European hills that is - not Australian 'hills' - for all you Australians - think small mountain! This 'hill' has an edge that is basically an escarpment in some places. We walked through the Piazza d. Mercato where there was a truck parked - it was a mobile deli - as Ethan commented "interesting". This walk down the hill of course then meant that a walk up the hill followed - the boys were a little hesitant about that and there was a fair bit of (pretend) huffing and puffing going on. On the way up we passed the Church of San Guiseppe, a couple of Universita buildings and at the top was the San Agostino Church and Tolomei Convent. The square in front of the church had some play equipment - so the boys immediately ran off to jump and leap all over that - no sign of huffing or puffing once that was sighted!!!

San Pietre alle Scale

Duomo front

Duomo - The Piazza is not wide enough to get the whole thing in one photograph

Museo - Stained glass removed during WWII & later with stone statues

Christ & Angels removed from Duomo

In one of the Ante-rooms to the masterpieces - sneak photo

Sneak picture while standing in line

Part of ceiling with shields in room where we lined up for Facciatone.

From here it was a short walk to the Duomo area, past the church of San Pietro alle Scale. What a sight greeted us - a marvellous Gothic wonder that words can't describe. It was started in 1215 and not finished until the 14th century - the age of these things is just so incomprehensible coming from a country where no building is more than 220 years old - this church was built BEFORE Columbus discovered the Americas........Even the boys were stunned into momentary silence. We joined the ticket line, for entry to the Duomo and the Museo d.Opera that is located next door. Although we were in the non-reserved ticket line it didn't take that long 15min and we started with the Museo. Now, there are plenty of signs for no photography - but I managed to sneak a few - taken without a flash - at particular points along the way.

Views from the Facciatone

The first room had statues and other stone work that had been removed from the Duomo as they were deteriorating - there are replicas on the Duomo itself. Upstairs from there was the masterpiece rooms containing Maesta by Duccio di Buoninsegna, Madonna del Perdono by Donatello, the Golden Rose by Bernini and the Crucifix by Pisano. Unfortunately I didn't sneak any photos of these as there was a pretty switched on guard in the room who had his eyes on Jacob who wanted to lean /hold the glass barrier. In the attached rooms were the plans and 'mock up' pictures for all the tile work that is laid in the Duomo as well as other pieces.

One of the two staircases we had to climb

The next room had more paintings as well as a roof with shields all over the ceiling and a line - so we joined it! It gave us a good chance to look at the paintings in the room very closely as well as the collection of priest vestments that were in this area. About an hour later we found that we were waiting in the line for the Facciatone - which involved a climb up about 400 steps in a steep spiral that was one person wide........ but the view was spectacular! We had a full 360 panoramic view of old Siena - it had taken so long as only a certain number of people can fit up there at any one time. The last rooms contained vessels, cups, plates, candle sticks etc from the Duomo and included vessels containing the remains of various people, mostly skulls and jaw bones. However, the entire skeleton of San Clemente was carefully wrapped and decorated inside a large glass container - I don't think Jacob understood what it was - or that it was real - but Ethan did. Again, a beady eyed attendant meant I couldn't sneak a photograph.

One section of the floor in the Duomo - the whole thing is covered. Some are only able to be seen for 2mths of the year they are so fragile, many of them are roped off.

Inside the Duomo

One of side Chapel areas, painting unknown - but lovely

Main Altar - Paintings by Peruzzi

One of the many books in the library

Close up of detail on one page

2 of the 10 panels in the library

By Andrea Bregno

Madonna del Vota - Bernini

After our climb we were tired and it was afternoon tea time, so we had a coffee break in a cafe a little out of the Duomo area - the pastries we had were great - filo crispy shells that had been filled with nutella. We then went back to the Duomo - they requested no flash photography - so I snapped away in 'night' mode - I'll let the pictures speak mostly for themselves, except to make particular comment about the Piccolomini Library - Every part of the room was covered in pictures and all around the edge were old books, beautifully illustrated - they themselves are works of art. They are the books that belonged to Pius II.

At top before descent - you can see our eventual ascent on the other side! San Domenico on top of the 'hill'

View down the hill with the Fonte Brande in centre of picture (with arches), behind it is the stairs we then had to walk up - path down on the right.

Mountain Goat Jacob streaking ahead up the stairs

View of Duomo from the pathway going up on the other side

We continued in a down hill run - along way down! At the bottom was the Fonte Brande the talking fountain, one of the ancient water fountains which also connected into the aqueduct system - the "driving force for productive activities". Down of course meant Up had to follow and it was a long staircase, but with long wide steps, so a bit like a bumpy ramp. At the top was the Church of San Domenico - this has a special, beautiful shrine to Siena's patron Saint St Catherine - there was a special sign asking for no photos so sorry - but the other art and chapels were great too, although not as elaborate as Catherine's. That pretty much ended the day, it was after 5 and our last stop before the bus home was for gelato.